Moving jib sheet tracks and cleats

[pbobbitt]

Thanks for the input. I'll post a pick when I get the new ones installed. we are having a small boat raid this weekend...

[GreenLake]

Sure, pix would be nice.

I thought about recommending cutting down the track, but you need to coat the exposed ends or you'll get corrosion started. Aluminum will form a skin on its own, but it's not going to be as good as the one they create when anodizing it.

I paid much less than "over $200" even in 2023 dollars, because I know about saving money - for better sails

[pbobbitt]

Yo.

Installed jib track.

Used the Ronstan 25 t-track and composite car. Jib block is a harkin Ratchet block.

The starboard side used through bolts all the way through, the port side had good wood for ther first four screws, through-bolted for the most forward.

[GreenLake]

Looks good.

[Rodrad1941]

I am new Daysailer owner and new member. On my 1977 DSII the jib cleats are on the tracks on the coaming. I don’t understand how to efficiently use cleats. Are they possibly because of different jib sail sizes? Mine is a standard size.
Would like to get info how my “traveling” clears need to be used.

Thank you,
Rod

[GreenLake]

Welcome to the forum.

Depending on your level of background, you may want to look into this thread for some of the basics.e

Specifically for the jib tracks: they allow you to change the angle at which the jib sheet pulls on the clew of the jib. With the cleat moved back along the track, the pull is more horizontal. More tension will be on the foot of the sail compared to the leech.

This allows the top of the sail to blow out, creating twist in the sail. You would choose that in strong winds to depower the sail, but you can also use it in very light winds, because then, the wind direction experienced at different heights above the deck will be different (see "Basic Concepts and Techniques").

For moderate to moderately strong winds, the jib cleats would be moved forward, so the jib sheet pulls down and helps tension the leech (back edge) of the sail.

You should experiment a bit on the water to see whether you can tell a difference. Don't be disappointed if the differences prove to be a bit subtle. That's not unusual about sail trim -- most people will get better over time and know when a sail looks right.

[CentralCoastSailor]

On my DSII I mounted a turning block as far outboard on the side "deck" as possible and then to a spinlock swivel cleat (it is a swivel base PXR). I also run barber haulers on top of the cuddy, so the sheeting angle is determined by barber hauler position and the turning block and jib sheet cleat are in fixed positions. The spinlock is on top of the coaming just aft of where there crew's butt would be when hiking. The BIG reason for the spinlock is that the amount of upward thrust you need to release them is adjustable. Most DS capsizes come from a sheeted JIB and a gust overpowering the boat and the crew then hiking so far out they cannot release the cleat. These beauties just need an upward flick of the wrist and they'll uncleat. VERY NICE - I'll take a couple of pics when I go to the YC later today and post them.

[GreenLake]

@CentralCoast intrigued by your recommendation of the SpinLock. Looking forward to a picture or link.

About fore/aft position vs. Barber inhauls. The latter affect the sheeting angle and allow that to be further inboard. The former adjust the ratio between downward and backward pull, which has a very different effect on sail trim.

However, the cut of the sail may affect where to place the turning block / cleat in the fore/aft position. My sailmaker suggested to only use the most forward position. We experimented with that setting again for benefit of a new crew and could observe no difference in moderately strong winds.

Your remarks about cleated jibs being a risk for capsize are well taken. I've switched to using ratchet blocks so the crew can hold the sheet without cleating. My cleats are positioned so that uncleating is easy given typical angles, but cleating may require "putting a foot down" onto the line to help it set.

Here are pictures:

My personal preference is to tie the two sheets together into a an "endless loop". Advantage is that an end can never get out of reach as you can always grab hold of the sheet near the block on either side and then pull it towards you as needed. Prevents a hasty crew from finding themselves on the high side with the jib still cleated on the wrong side, and also enables the skipper to reach in and operate the jib - useful for single-handing or training.

[IslandFarmer]

I decided to try this out.

I have an "83 DS2 with the same jib tracks that you reference and I am a singlehanded sailor. I very carefully removed the cars from the tracks and bent the cars so the cleat is at a 45 degree angle rather than 90. That involves removing the fairlead while bending but no real problem. It makes it easier to release the sheet from the windward side of the cockpit.
I considered mounting a cleating arrangement on the centerboard trunk but like my rig better.
JW

My cleats were 30–45º below the plane of the fairlead backing.
         

I removed both the cam cleats and the fairlead and bent the fairlead end so the cleats are now in the same plane as the fairlead backing. Here are two pics. I found two strips of old metal to put either side of the fairlead backing to avoid inadvertently warping the fairlead backing.
        

Will test out next summer.... I am definitely keeping top of mind GreenLake's suggestion of a simple block on the track and cams on the CB trunk. Clearly ideal. I just get anxious when it comes to drilling holes, so taking baby steps.