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topping lift ideas

Posted:
Sat Oct 24, 2009 6:53 am
by dannyb9
how is a topping lift rigged? i have an idea for a line that loops down from one of the hounds (spreader connection) under the boom and back up to the opposite spreader attachment. if the loop is slid back along the boom to the mainsheet turning block it would hold the boom up...what are other alternatives?
topping lift

Posted:
Sat Oct 24, 2009 3:03 pm
by kokko
I ran a line from the top of the mast, through a cheek block and the end of the boom, to a cleat. Simple

Posted:
Sat Oct 24, 2009 4:27 pm
by K.C. Walker
Mine is rigged somewhat like a halyard with a cheek block near the tip of the mast. One end of the line attached to the end of the boom and the other down to a horn cleat near the base of the mast. I have a loop tied in the line so I can just pull it over the cleat for the raised position. Right now I'm using parachute cord… which works okay so far.
KC

Posted:
Sat Oct 24, 2009 10:25 pm
by MrPlywood
I installed mine this year. It's worth it's weight. Makes rigging easier, and makes beaching a LOT easier since I can keep the end of the boom raised with the main lowered, so I can see where I going and steer better. I used a cheek block at the top of the mast (careening is a lot easier than you might think) with light braided line (1/8" ?) and a medium size snap hook to attach to the end of the boom. It's tied off on a horn cleat on the mast, and I marked the line so I'll know where the correct height is. I like KC's loop idea.
You can see it here: [thumb=765]

Posted:
Mon Nov 30, 2009 2:56 pm
by mistermoon
How are you guys attaching hardware to the mast and boom? Are you riveting and if so with what? Or are you drilling and tapping?
topping lift

Posted:
Mon Nov 30, 2009 2:58 pm
by kokko
I have used pop rivets and self-tapping screws.

Posted:
Mon Nov 30, 2009 3:18 pm
by GreenLake
The fittings are usually stainless steel and so are the screws, while mast/boom and rivets are aluminum. Make sure to electrically isolate the dissimilar materials. The state of the art material, supposedly, for this is called "Tef-gel", it's pricey but a small amount goes a long way. Best for threads as it also supposed to make sure that screws can be unscrewed again later. For larger areas, such as underneath a SS fitting, other bedding compounds may work as well.